It seems every time I bake with a pear it’s because it’s on the verge of turning to sweet slush in the fruit bowl. This isn’t a cake for new arrivals from the supermarket – its for those pears that have evolved, ripened beyond any other usability. Grating them – don’t bother peeling their thin, delicate skins – turns them into a sloshy, slurpy pile of almost pear sauce that’s perfect for moist cakes, muffins and loaves. Make sure you grate them onto a plate with a rim, to capture all that juice. I like a dense, damp, not-too-sweet cake with a crackly edge. And I like that unlike with layer cakes, you can eat a wodge of bundt – or a sliver – with your fingers. (OK, you can do that with layer cakes too, but it’s a messier a challenge.) And don’t you love dribbling icing over a bundt cake and letting it run down its crannies?