I thought I had figured out the ideal chocolate chip cookie, that the perfect formula had been squared away and would never need revisiting. I made a batch to bring to CBC earlier this week, and since we were discussing the science behind chocolate chip cookies, I decided to make a thinner, chewier batch to contrast my thick, chewy portraits of perfection. For the sake of radio conversation. Guess which plate most everyone in the studio and newsroom went for? The thin ones with the rumpled edge. It’s like everyone had been replaced by thin cookie loving aliens who just didn’t know any better. It turns out there is no one true chocolate chip cookie – just a few favourites you can keep tucked away in your wardrobe of chocolate chip cookies.
My current favourite, a mash-up of recipes (sometimes I just alternate) by Anna and Ashley, has been in such heavy rotation that it hasn’t occurred to me to this version in years. I forgot how addictive they are – it’s like the entire cookie is made up of a dark, crisp, almost candylike edge. With a higher ratio of butter and sugar to flour, they melt and spread and caramelize more drastically than those made with more eggs and flour. Some think it’s a failure when their cookies spread thin and smash into each other, but they’re the kind my mom likes best. I just ate four, and had to give the rest away to save me from myself.
There is a dense softness in the middle – it’s not all snap. And while I generally like chopped dark chocolate in my cookies to provide larger puddles and tiny bits speckled throughout, chocolate chips work just fine here. When you need to spread some happy, pull these out of your closet.