Preheat the oven to 250F.

In a large, clean glass or stainless steel bowl, beat the egg whites until foamy; add the cream of tartar, if you have it, and continue to beat until the beaters start leaving a trail through the whites. In a small bowl or measuring cup, stir together the sugar, cornstarch and salt. Slowly pour the sugar mixture into the egg whites, beating until they hold stiff, glossy peaks and have the texture of shaving foam. If you like, beat in the vanilla or peppermint extract.

Sift the cocoa over the meringue and fold once to start a swirled effect, then start spooning it out and it will naturally get swirly. Drop large spoonfuls (I use a large cookie scoop) onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, swirling the tops, and bake for 1 — 1 1/2 hours, until dry. If you like, turn off the oven, open the oven door slightly and leave them inside as the oven cools if you want harder meringues.

Makes about 1 dozen meringues.