If you're oven roasting your wings, preheat the oven to 425F. Pat the chicken wings dry with paper towel and lay out in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet - or set a wire rack on the sheet and spread the wings out on it. Roast for 40-45 minutes, until golden and cooked through.

If you want to fry them, pat them dry, then season the flour with salt and pepper and place in a plastic bag; add the wings in batches and shake to coat. Heat a couple inches of oil in a heavy saucepan until hot, but not smoking. Cook the wings in batches, without crowding the pot, until golden and crisp. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

Meanwhile, melt the butter with the hot sauce and lemon juice in a small saucepan over medium heat, whisking until smooth. Toss cooked wings with sauce and if you like, return to the oven for another 10-15 minutes. Serve warm, with extra sauce.